Certifications and approvals of climbing material

Certification for harnesses

IN 12277

This European standard specifies safety requirements for mountaineering harnesses, including climbing. Complying with this standard ensures the safety of the user in any use on the mountain.

It is valid for full-body harnesses, pelvis harnesses, chest harnesses, and small ones. According to these harness models, the standard is divided into four Types.

Type A

Full-body harness covering the torso and thighs. The safest model as it keeps the head upright in any fall even if the climber is unconscious. This is achieved by the point of stringing in the chest area. This also causes the force of the fall to be divided among a larger part of the body which decreases the shock force at a particular point.

Type B

Full-body harness the same as Type A but smaller. It is mainly intended for children or people up to 40 kilos in weight.

Type C

Harness Edelrid Jay III

Belt-shaped pelvic harness that connects to legs to hold the body in a seated position. It is the type of harness most used in climbing for its comfort of use and performance.

Being the most used, there is a wide variety of this type of harnesses. The most common have a unique stringing point on which the shock force and fall wear falls.

Type D

Chest harness that fits around the torso and under the armpits. A Type D harness should only be used in combination with a Type C harness as it cannot hold a person hanging on its own for a long time.

Certification for helmets

IN 12492

This European standard specifies safety requirements for mountaineering helmets, including climbing, mountaineering and rescue.

These helmets must have a housing of high resistance to mechanical shocks and with a high absorption of impacts. Its protection against shocks at the top should be minimal against a fall of an object of 5 kg from 2 m and in the front, side and rear areas from 0.5 m. They also have to be resistant to object penetration, withstand the collision of a 3kg sharp object that falls from one meter without crossing the hull.

They must be equipped with a sturdy clamping system to keep the helmet in place. They cannot be released with forces less than 50kg of falling weight to avoid the risk of loss in case of fall.

They must also include ventilation points without subtracting resistance.

Although it is a standard for mountain use, many of the helmets that comply with EN 12492 are also certified with EN 397 and can also be used in height work and other special applications.

IN 397

This standard is similar to EN 12492 but specially designed for industry and high-altitude work.

They must also have a housing of high resistance to mechanical shocks and high shock absorption. Its shock protection should be minimal against a drop of a 5 kg object from 1 m. They also have to be resistant to object penetration, withstand the collision of a 3kg sharp object that falls from one meter without crossing the hull.

They must be equipped with a sturdy clamping system to keep the helmet in place. They should be released with forces greater than 25 kg of falling weight to avoid the risk of strangulation in case the helmet is hooked.

They must protect from fusion metal projections and potential electrical hazards. They have to withstand the exposure of a flame for 10 seconds, lateral deformations and can be used at low temperatures.

Certification for piolets

IN 13089

This European standard specifys safety requirements for mountaineering and climbing piolets that also serve as an anchor point for falls. The standard indicates the resistors in Kn that should overcome piolets and classifies them into two groups:

Technicians: they are suitable for all types of use because they have greater strength in all aspects: traction and resistance of the handle and leaf bending. These piolets must be marked with a T within a circle

Basic: their resistance is lower and they are optionally marked with a B within a circle or can be left unchecked.

The leaves and handle pass the standard separately so each piolet can have a combination of leaves and handles from different groups to accommodate different types of activities.

EC 0123

Statement by the manufacturer of the product that its climbing material complies with the minimum legal and technical requirements of the European Union regarding the safety of the Personal Protective Equipment.

This CE 0123 marking is used for all types of climbing material, such as harnesses, tapes or heatsinks.

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